CHINCHERO (”Village of the Rainbow”) lies 3762m above sea level, 28km northwest from Cusco and off the main road, overlooking the Sacred Valley, with the Vilcabamba range and the snowcapped peak of Salcantay dominating the horizon to the west. The bus ride here takes you up to the Pampa de Anta, which used to be a huge lake but is now relatively dry pasture, surrounded by snowcapped nevadas. The town itself is a small, rustic place, where the local women, who crowd the main plaza during the market, still wear traditional dress. Largely built of stone and adobe, the town blends perfectly with the magnificant display of Inca architecture, ruins and megalithic carved rocks, relics of Inca veneration of nature deities. The best time to visit is on September 8 for the lively traditional fiesta . Failing that, the market, smaller but less touristy than Pisac’s, has good local craftwork.
The market (Sun morning) is in the lower part of town, reached along Calle Manco II. Uphill from here, along the cobbled steps and streets, you’ll find a vast plaza , which may have been the original Inca market place. It’s bounded on one side by a superb wall somewhat reminiscent of Sacsayhuaman’s ramparts, though not as massive - it too was constructed on three levels, and some ten classical Inca trapezoidal niches can be seen along its surface. On the western perimeter of the plaza, the raised Inca stonework is dominated by a carved stone throne , near which are puma and monkey formations. The plaza is also home to a superb, colonial adobe church (daily 7am-5.30pm; entry by Cusco Tourist Ticket, available here or in Cusco). Dating from the early seventeenth century, it was built on top of an Inca temple or palace, perhaps belonging to the Inca emperor Tupac Yupanqui, who particularly favoured Chinchero as an out-of-town resort - most of the area’s aqueducts and terraces, many of which are still in use today, were built at his command. The church itself boasts decaying frescoes, murals and paintings, many pertaining to the Cusqeña school and celebrated local artist Mateo Cuihuanito. The most interesting depict the late eighteenth-century forces led by local chief Pumacahua against the rebel Tupac Amaru II.
For a quick delve into nearby Inca remains, follow the terraces to the west of the plaza’s throne, then drop down a flight of steps towards the stream. You’ll soon come across more carved rocky outcrops and a vast, elaborately worked boulder; to the west a small stone staircase follows the stream down to the base of the rock, where there are two large, square niches cut deep into the boulder, possibly sites for mummies or ceremonial offerings.
Buses ($0.8; a 40min journey) leave Cusco from the compound in Tullumayo, a small road behind Koricancha. There are just two places to stay in town, of which the Hotel Los Inca s ($5-10) is the best value, with a pleasant, rustic restaurant. It’s also possible to camp below the terraces in the open fields beyond the village, but, as always, ask someone local for permission or advice on this. There are several restaurants , all cheap and cheerful, though Camucha, Avenida Mateo Pumacahua 168, at the junction of Calle Manco Capac II and the main road to Cusco, has a good set lunch.
